9/27/2023 0 Comments Flux core welding sheet metal![]() ![]() ![]() So now with the metal clamped to a block so the joint has nothing behind it (held with a magnet to to a tack at each end, then magnet removed). My advice, from the heart, BIN THE CORED WIRE invest in a solid wire/gas shielded set-up, and immediately the whole job is easierįollowing the advice, I've got a lot better after a few more practice sessions. There are more than likely a plethora of welders with infinitely more expertise with this method than i, but I found that the flux-core was 'ALRIGHT,' IT worked 'WELL ENOUGH' with the heavy steelwork, but lacks 'something,' waiting for the flux-core to gas, whilst watching the steel burn away would just send me reaching for a gas shielded set up EVERY TIME The higher your heat input, the greater your weld crater issues, get into the habit of filling the weld crater, by either welding back and forth over the weld pool, (pipe welders on the root), stopping and allowing the extra weld metal to build up and fill the weld crater, or stopping, allowing the pool to cool briefly, 2-3 seconds and then welding over (JUST) the weld crater: whatever works for you, BUT unfilled weld craters are bad practise, and if you work in this industry you will witness rejects and failures due to it Ok, so my experience of light gauge flux-core is VERY limited, but I have used flux-cored in heavy engineering, out-door conditions: looking at the photograph, what I believe your not doing, is overlapping your stop/starts whilst using the make and break method: the holes that are present I believe to be weld crater shrinkage: your need to 'arc-up' burn out and fill the previous weld-crater: I don't think I'm far off, but would the advice be to reduce wire speed, reduce power or change my technique? So - my question is, in the photos below I think I've got too much penetration as the weld spots look rather wide and flat (about 4mm wide), and there are blobs on the back. Wire is 0.9mm flux core GYS Toparc, machine is a Parkside gasless PFDS120A2, metal is 0.8mm sheet offcuts about 10cm wide. Working left to right (although I find working towards myself easier, I think left to right might be a better direction to get right). I'm waiting until I can see the weld pool melting the edge of the top sheet then stopping and letting it cool until it's more orange than yellow, then doing the next spot. Then when I'm happy with that I'll have a proper go at butt joints. At the moment I'm using the spot/stitch technique on lap joints. I've recently moved down to trying 0.8mm sheet with some success. My approach is to start with thick metal then working to thinner metal and more complex techniques rather than jumping straight in with a cheap gasless welder and having a strop because I can't do car bodywork in the first week They're obviously not perfect but something I can practice to get neater and better. I've some previous experience with 6013 rods on a cheap buzzbox so had some idea of how things behave when an arc is pointed at them.įollowing the tutorials on here and online videos, I've reasonably happy with sheet steel around 2-3mm for butt, lap and fillet joints. I never intend to do anything more than the occasional repair and am really welding just for the fun of it so it isn't worth me going for gas mig at this stage (but I may do in future). I've been learning flux core gasless with an £80 Lidl Parkside unit for a couple of weeks.
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